Kyrgyzstan: December 2024
The Kyrgyz Republic (official name) is one of five Central Asian countries, the other four being Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan. Along with ten other “republics” they made up the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics which disbanded in 1991.
In certain ways the country still seems mired in its Soviet past. The capitol city Bishkek has among the worlds’ worst air quality, and during certain winter days ranks as the #1 most polluted city in the world. That’s due to the enormous amount of coal burned. It has been explained to me that before even checking the weather, city residents can look out their window to determine how warm or cold the day is. A blue sky means warm as less coal is being burned, a smoggy white sky means it’s cold outside.
But even on the warmer, blue sky days breathing was an assault on the nose and throat. And yet the people go about their daily lives there, often under Lenin’s benevolent gaze.
There are six pages to this gallery:
On the same day and two different locations, there was an active livestock market (mostly sheep) and a greenmarket. This was in the mountain town Karakol.
Rolling out of the smog filled Bishkek, I didn’t see much difference through the windshield as we headed into the mountains, but Erbol assured me that what I was now seeing was the fog that presages the coming of snow. Opening the window I was greeted by the pure mountain air that I breathed in in greedy gulps.
While I don’t ordinarily consider myself a landscape photographer, there were times I just had to get out of the car and try to capture this country’s majestic beauty.
Changing of the Guard in front of the National History Museum
In warm weather this happens every two hours, but in colder weather every hour. It was eerily reminiscent of the changing of the guard in front of Lenin’s tomb in Moscow that I witnessed in 1972.
Constructed from 1907-1910 without a single nail being used. The wood is fitted and joined together.
My incredible lucky streak in hiring overseas assistants, sight unseen continues with Erbol Tilekovich. Much of what I captured on this visit was due to his suggestions. I can only hope that he will be available to work with me again when I return to Kyrgyzstan in May, 2025.
